| The confusing part is that each variety needs a particular combination. For instance, a variety that needs many hours of summer light will not perform well in an area that receives fewer hours of light. Onion growers categorize onions in one of three ways:
Short Day-recommended for southern states where temperatures are normally warmer year round. The "short day" varieties will start making bulbs early in the year when there are only 10 to 12 hours of daylight. Because they have a higher concentration of water as opposed to solid fiber content, they do not store well and should be eaten fresh.
Texas Supersweet
Gets as big as softballs! This variety produces very appealing globe-shaped jumbos and colossals. This yellow, early-maturing onion is recommended for southern and midwest gardeners.
It is very disease resistant and will store better than other short day onions.
Yellow Granex
Sweet as an apple! This variety was made famous by the onion-growing area in and around Vidalia, Georgia. It is the earliest-maturing variety available, and is recommended for southern growers. This thick, flat bulb is best when eaten raw.
Yellow Granex does not store well. It is sometimes known as the Maui or Noonday.
White Bermuda
An old gardening favorite! Great for bunching or for eating raw. White Bermuda bulbs are extremely mild. They are thick, flat bulbs that grow best in southern areas.
White Bermuda onions do not store well. Also known as the Crystal Wax.
Intermediate Day-need 12 to 14 hours of daylight to trigger the bulbing process. Intermediate varieties are ideal for the zone between the north and south but are well-adapted for almost all growing areas in the country.
Sweet Red
Adds special color and flavor to salads! This large, flattened globe is the red variety you find in your favorite Italian restaurant. Great for hamburgers too!
Sweet Red bulbs grow well in the northern or southern part of the United States but have limited storage capability.
Cimarron
Popular intermediate variety! This large, yellow, globe-shaped onion possesses the unique combination of earliness, productivity, and quality.
Gardeners can expect Cimarron to mature later in the south and earlier in the north than the designated varieties bred for their areas.
The Cimarron is mildly pungent in flavor with medium storage capability.
Long Day-grow better in northern states because they need 14 to 16 hours of daylight to bulb satisfactorily. Long day varieties generally have a more pungent flavor than short day. They also store better. (Walla Walla is an exception to this rule.)
Walla-Walla
The pride of Washington State! A sweet, long-day, yellow onion that makes large bulbs in northern and midwestern states. Does not store as well as other long-day varieties.
White Spanish
Available in white or yellow. Both produce onions weighing up to three lbs. each. These are our best onions for northern gardeners. Good separation and durability of rings makes them great for fried onion rings.
First Edition
Best long term storage onion. Especially flavorful for cooked and baked recipes. High-yielding variety produces uniform globe-shaped bulbs, with creamy-yellow flesh. Developed for northern and northeastern areas.
When to Start
Leeks: You can direct-seed leeks, or start transplants indoors. Long-season varieties are best started indoors. Expect germination in 4-7 days. Start transplants about 8 to 10 weeks before last frost date.
Onions: Can be direct-seeded, grown from transplants started inside, or from sets -- small bulbs about ½-inch in diameter grown from seed the previous season. Expect germination in 4-7 days. Direct-seeding in the garden may not allow enough time for long-season varieties to mature, but is fine for shorter-season varieties or for scallions - onions harvested before the bulb forms. Start transplants inside about 8 to 10 weeks before last frost date.
How to Start
Leeks:
Direct seed: about 4 weeks before average last frost ½ inch deep. For beds- plant 1 inch apart each direction. For rows- plant 1 inch apart, space rows 20 inches apart. Thin to 4 to 6 inches apart.
Transplants: Sow seeds in flats about ¼ inch apart and ½ inch deep. Transplant to cell-type containers when they are about 2 inches tall. If you skip this step and continue growing in open flats, simply tease apart and trim roots when transplanting into the garden.
   
(L to R: Leeks: seedlings in flats, direct sown seedlings, young plants, mature plants)
Onions:
Direct-seed: in spring when the soil reaches 50 F. Plant seed ¼ inch deep, ½ inch apart, in rows 12 to 18 inches apart. Plant in beds 1/2 inch apart each direction. Thin to 4-inch spacings for large bulbs, 2-inch spacings for smaller bulbs but higher yields, or 1-inch spacings for scallions.
Transplants: Plant 4 or 5 seeds in each cell, or seed in flats ¼ inch deep and ½ inch apart. If tops grow too tall and begin to droop, trim back to about 3 inches tall with scissors.
From sets: Choose bulbs no larger than ¾ inch in diameter. Large bulbs are more prone to bolting. Plant sets about 1 inch deep 2 to 4 weeks before last frost date. Space 4 inches apart for large bulbs or 2 inches apart for smaller bulbs.
When you obtain onion plants, they should be dry. Do not wet them or stick their roots in soil or water. Unpack your plants and store them in a cool, dry place until you plant them. Properly stored onion plants will last up to three weeks. Do not worry if the plants become dry. As soon as they are planted, they will "shoot" new roots and green tops.
   
(L to R: Onions: direct sown seedlings, transplants, young plants, mature bulb)
Planting Out
Leeks: Well-drained, rich soil, high in organic matter. Optimum pH is 6.2 to 6.8. Choose a weed-free, well-drained location. Raised beds are ideal. Leeks grow well in full sun or part shade and will be ready to harvest in 50-75 days. Leeks are especially good for intercropping with other garden plants.
Do not plant where other onion family crops have been grown in the past 3 years.
Around the average last day of frost, set hardened-off transplants 4 to 8 inches deep, 4 to 6 inches apart, in rows 20 inches apart. Deep planting reduces need for hilling to blanch the base of the plants. Transplants should be about 6 to 12 inches tall - the bigger, the better. Only a few inches of leaf need to show above the soil.
Onions: Well-drained, rich soil, high in organic matter, neutral pH. Optimum pH is 6.2 to 6.8. Choose a weed-free, well-drained location. Raised beds are ideal. Onions require full sun & will be ready to harvest in 65-75 days. Onions are good for intercropping with other garden plants, especially early-maturing spring greens.
Do not plant where other onion family crops have been grown in the past 3 years.
After hardening off, transplant 2 to 4 weeks before last frost date. Space 4 inches apart for large bulbs, 2 inches apart for smaller bulbs, or 1 inch apart for scallions.
Special Considerations
Leeks: For direct sown leeks, hill or mound soil around stems several times to blanch as leeks grow. (A single large hilling while plants are young can cause them to rot.) Or, place a portion of cardboard paper towel center around the lower part of the stem.
Onions: If planted thickly, plants can be pulled and utilized as green onions or scallions for salads or fresh eating in 8-10 weeks.
If an onion plant is exposed to alternating cold and warm temperatures resulting in the onion plant going dormant, resuming growth, going dormant and then resuming growth again, the onion bulbs prematurely flower or bolt. The onion is deceived into believing it has completed two growth cycles or years of growth in its biennial life cycle so it finalizes the cycle by blooming. Flowering can be controlled by planting the right variety at the right time.
 
(L to R: field of leeks in Japan, field of onions in Georgia)
Growing Tips
Leeks & Onions have shallow root systems and need consistent moisture and good weed control. Water weekly if weather is dry, and mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Onions require a high source of nitrogen. High nitrogen compost worked into the soil before planting or a high nitrogen organic fertilizer should be applied. The first application should be about three weeks after planting and then continue with applications every 2 to 3 weeks. Once the neck starts feeling soft do not apply any more fertilizer. This should occur approximately 4 weeks prior to harvest. Always water immediately after feeding and maintain moisture during the growing season. The closer to harvest the more water the onion will require.
Pests & Problems
The two major diseases that will affect onions are blight and purple blotch. Should the leaves turn pale-green, then yellow, blight has probably affected the plant. Purple blotch causes purple lesions on the leaves. Heavy dew and foggy weather favor their rapid spread, and when prolonged rainy spells occur in warm weather, these diseases can be very destructive. The best cure is prevention: use only well-drained soil, run the rows in the same direction as prevailing wind and avoid windbreaks or other protection.
The insect that causes the most damage is the onion thrip. They feed by rasping the surface of the leaves and sucking the liberated juices. They are light-brown in color and are approximately 1mm long.
Harvesting
Leeks: Leeks are easy to harvest. They have a relatively long growing season, meaning you can harvest leeks all summer long in some areas. After the harvest begins, prolong it by only picking the leeks you plan to use, allowing the rest to continue growing.
Leeks are typically harvested during late summer or early autumn. In practice, leek harvesting can begin about 60 days after planting and continue until the harvest is complete, or the weather makes further harvest unfeasible. Be aware of the weather and fully harvest all remaining leeks ahead of the first hard freeze.
Vegetable garden leeks should be removed whole. If you grip the top of the plant and pull, it is likely to break, and much of the leeks will be lost. Instead, loosen the soil with your fingers and lift out the leeks by their root systems.
You can continue growing leeks until the first hard frost kills them back. By harvesting slowly, you allow the unharvested leeks to grow larger and more flavorful. Only pick what you need until the danger of a freeze prompts completing the full harvest.
Leeks survive the winter easily in most regions, especially with a little mulch. Eat the blanched stem in early spring for a tasty treat! In their second year, each leek has a wonderful spherical flower which could easily qualify as an ornamental specimen. The flower produces hundreds of seed pods which can be saved to replant.
     
(L to R: Leeks: baked w/toasted walnuts, baked, topped w/scallops & pimentos, stewed, broiled, broiled w/scallops, marinated & roasted)
Onions: You can always tell when onions have stopped growing. The leaves will lose their color, weaken at the top of the bulb and flop over. Each year a few new gardeners watch the leaves die and wonder, "What's wrong?" There's nothing wrong; it's Nature's plan. The leaves' job is done - they've put the last of their energy into the bulbs.
Let most of your onion tops fall over by themselves - maybe 80% or 90% of them - then bend over the rest of the tops. Once they're down, leave the bulbs in the ground for another 10 days to two weeks to mature fully. It's not good to leave the onions in the ground for longer than two weeks after the tops die because they become open to organisms that can cause rot in storage, or they might even start growing again.
Pull your onions up on a sunny day if you can, then let them sit in the sun for another day or so to dry (in hot climates this usually takes just a few hours). This drying kills the root system at the bottom of each bulb. The roots will be like little brittle wires when they're dry.
Picking the right day to pull the onions can determine how well the onions will keep. If you harvest them after some rainy weather they'll have a lot more moisture in them and won't dry out as well.
After pulling from the ground allow the onion to dry, clip the roots and cut the tops back to one inch.
The key to preserving onions and to prevent bruising is to keep them cool, dry and separated.
In the refrigerator, wrapped separately in foil, onions can be preserved for as long as a year. The best way to store onions is in a mesh bag or nylon stocking. Place an onion in the bag and tie a knot or put a plastic tie between the onions and continue until the stocking is full. Loop the stocking over a rafter or nail in a cool dry building and when an onion is desired, simply clip off the bottom onion with a pair of scissors or remove the plastic tie.
Another suggestion is to spread the onions out on a screen which will allow adequate ventilation, but remember to keep them from touching each other. As a general rule, the sweeter the onion, the higher the water content, and therefore the less shelf life. A more pungent onion will store longer so eat the sweet varieties first and save the more pungent onions for storage.
     
(L to R: Onions: french onion soup, sautéd mushrooms & onions, cheese & onion stuffed pork roast, stuffed onions, onion soup served in a bread bowl)
To grow Onions to Seed:
Seed-producing onions are biennial and it will take two growing seasons to get onion seed. I will explain the seed-to-bulb-to-seed method.
Purchase onion seed and plant as you normally would in the spring. When purchasing seed, only buy open-pollinated or heirloom seeds. Hybrids and other types of seeds are not true seed and your results may be mixed.
You should order and grow enough onions so you have some for eating and some dedicated for seed saving. Onions can cross, so it's best to start with one variety at a time.
Plant your onion seed and do not pick or eat the ones you intend to harvest for seed.
At the end of the growing season when the onion tops are brown, drying and bent over, harvest the onion bulbs. This should be done before the first frost. Do NOT wash the onions, however you can shake the dirt off. Leave the tops on for braiding later.
Choose only the best bulbs for seed saving. Discard or eat others that may not overwinter well.
Spread onions out in a dry location, not touching one another, on a board or screen. If it looks like rain, you will have to move them to a location where they will not get rained on. Try to use a platform that allows air to circulate around the onions well.
Avoid drying the bulbs in direct sunlight in temperatures that are above 75 degrees. This can cause the bulbs to spoil or sunburn. Dry and cure the onions for 10-12 days before braiding.
After curing, you can braid the tops so the onions hang one above the other (not in clumps) and then hang them in a dark, dry storage area until spring.
A barn, potting shed or greenhouse are usually good places to hang them. Protect from the frost and do not store at room temperature. They should keep about 3-6 months and just begin sprouting come planting time in the spring. Sprouting times vary among different varieties.
In spring, when it's time to plant onions again, remove each onion by untwisting the braid and removing the dead, dried up tops. You will probably notice small green sprouts starting at the tops of the bulbs.
Plant the bulbs in your garden. It is interesting to watch the large, tube-like seed stalks grow bigger every day. Then one day you will notice tiny white flowers have formed--the flower head. They are about the size of a softball and remind one of popcorn balls. They are quite dainty and beautiful.
  
When the seeds form, the onion plant begins to dry. When the flower head begins to darken, turning almost solid black the seeds are dry and ready to harvest.
Using a brown paper bag, bend the onion stalk over and snip the entire flower head into the bag.
Store in a dry area out of direct sunlight to finish drying process. To completely remove the seeds from the flower head, you can shake the bag to allow the loose seeds to drop into bag.
Any remaining seeds can be removed by other techniques; including, threshing, using wire screens to rub them over or stepping on the seed heads to break open the pods.
Screen any debris from your onion seed using seed screens or other screens from home. Nice seed screens can be purchased from some of the seed companies listed in the resource links.
Place onion seed in a sealed glass canning jar or freeze in freezer bags to lengthen the life of the seed. If using the jar method, store in a dry, cool dark area without extreme temperature fluctuations. Onion seed generally keeps for about 2 years under ideal conditions
  
Fun Facts
~1 medium Raw onion contains:
* 60 Calories
* 1 gram Protein
* 14 grams Carbohydrates
* 0 Fat
* 0 Cholesterol
* 10 mg Sodium
* 200 mg Potassium
* 11.9 mg Vitamin C (20% of USRDA)
~It is hard to say when the onion came into being. They were grown in Ancient Egypt, and eventually arrived in Rome and became known as the word onion (from the Latin word UNIO, which means large pearl). In Middle English, it became UNYON. The status of the onion rose after French Onion Soup was made popular by Stanislaus I, the former King of Poland.
~Onions are high in energy and water content. They are low in calories, and have a generous amount of B6, B1, and Folic acid.
~Onions contain chemicals which help fight the free radicals in our bodies. Free radicals cause disease and destruction to cells which are linked to at least 60 diseases.
~To make onions milder, soak them in milk or pour boiling water over slices and let stand. Rinse with cold water.
~When a person eats at least 1/2 a raw onion a day, their good type HDL cholesterol goes up an average of 30%. Onions increase circulation, lower blood pressure, and prevent blood clotting.
~To reduce tearing when peeling or slicing an onion, chill for 30 minutes or cut off the top, but leave the root on. The root has the largest amount of sulphuric compounds, which is what causes tears when the onion is peeled or cut. Remove the root prior to cooking or eating.
~Prolonged cooking takes the flavor out of onions. Cook only until they're tender when tested with a fork.
~Rub your hands on stainless steel (kitchen faucet works great!) after cutting an onion to get rid of the onion smell.
be sure to see all the posts in this series for more info! |
